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2010
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Processors

BACKGROUND
Once upon a time there were only two signal processors for PA, spring reverb and tape echo. Both suffered from mechanical frailty and the echoes had a tendancy to overload with amazing ease. This remained the case throughout the nineteen-sixties, up until that fateful summer of 1969 and the Woodstock festival, in the wake of which PA technology took a huge, faltering step forward. Suddenly 4 and 5-channel PA "heads" were being replaced by multi-channel consoles and separate power amplifiers. Speaker "columns" and "cubes" began giving way to jumbo bins with horns stacked ontop. The wedge-shaped stage monitor was born along with the dreaded term "monitor feedback" (Which is it - the main stacks or the monitors?!).

Signal processors now included passive crossovers and crude graphic equalizers, neither of which were well understood. In the mid-1970's digital delays made their entrance along with 31-band EQ's, active crossovers and bi-amping. Power amps became stereo then they got bigger and then people learned about "bridging" them. The smoked drivers, the blown amps, the cursing - it was truly something to behold.

But the dust finally began to settle in the mid-1980's when bin/horn stacks started giving way to advanced all-in-one speaker systems with smooth frequency response and superior passive crossovers. This reduced the need for bi-amping and its inherent dangers for the inexperienced. Meanwhile, previously astronomical prices on good quality compressor/limiters had come down and continued to do so. Now they're available to club-size PA users. And the list of PA signal processors continues to grow. This writing will cover the major ones used for PA - guitar effects will not be covered.

GENERAL
Signal processors all have two things in common:

  1. With the exception of passive crossovers, they are all line-level (so do not connect them to amplifier outputs). See >>"LINE" under MIXER INPUTS for more details regarding line level.
  2. They all have inputs and outputs so that they can be connected in series with the audio signal.
Aside from that, they're all different and most require a certain amount of experimentation to get them working properly.

GRAPHIC EQ
Try to imagine a set of "volume" controls wherein each one only affects a certain segment of the overall 20Hz to 20,000Hz range of sound frequencies. That' s a graphic equalizer - more or less. Actually the faders can't turn things up to "10" or down to "0", but they can turn them up to about "7" and down to about "4", far enough to have a marked effect on the overall volume level, depending on how many are pushed up or down from centre, and how far. It's hard to imagine that merely changing the comparitive volume levels of various frequency bands could make such huge changes in the way things sound, but that's exactly what happens.

The actual tone which identifies something, let's say a trumpet note, depends on the comparitive volume levels at which the harmonics of that note occur. Harmonics are incidental vibrations which occur whenever an instrument or voice is producing a note. In this case, the trumpeter's lips can be vibrating at 440Hz to produce middle A, but ripples in the skin also produce tiny notes at higher frequncies, these are the harmonics. The same sort of thing happens along a vibrating string or a reed or anything which vibrates to produce sound . When you adjust an equalizer you increase or decrease the amount of audible emphasis on any harmonics occurring in that range, hence altering the tone.

Feedback is simply a sound that's gone wild. What's at work here is a phenomenon called sympathetic vibration. Basically, two or more things which are physically prone to vibrating very freely at a certain frequency can get each other in motion by "remote control". One of them sets the air in motion and the vibrating air then sets the other thing(s) in motion.

  • To prove this, place two acoustic guitars close together and tune them identically. Strum one of them then mute the strings and listen to the other one - it should be ringing.
If things with similar frequency response peaks are connected to the same amplifier system and turned up loudly enough, the vibrating sources (eg. a mic diaphragm and a speaker) reinforce each other in an escalating manner at that frequency and you have feedback. The EQ lets you turn down the system's volume at that frequency which gets rid of the feedback, BUT now the natural tone has been altered (good news and bad news). That's why we say again, never over-equalize.
  • { TIP - One thing you should always resist is the temptation to create a "smiling" EQ curve. It may be OK at home, but on the job it robs the system of power headroom and muddies the sound. As the volume level rises during the night, these problems will make the PA sound weak, as if it is somehow losing power.}
Today's Graphics EQ's have additional features worth noting:
  • "Gain" This is a fader to let you compensate for an adjusted EQ's natural tendancy to turn the volume (actually gain) up or down (see above). Be a little careful with this feature. Boost the Gain too high and you might overdrive the mixer input.

    { TIP - When connecting the EQ directly to an input channel via the Insert jack, remember that on some if not most mixers, the Insert jack is post-Gain. As a result the "return" part of it is not regulated by the channel's input Gain control. Thus, if you increase the EQ's Gain by too much and distort the channel, you should reduce the EQ's Gain, not the channel Gain.}

  • "HP Filter" The high-pass filter, sometimes referred to as a "Subsonic" filter, is usually activated by a pushbutton. As the name implies, it lets all the frequencies higher than a certain frequency "pass". In other words, it doesn't let anything below that frequency pass which means it's a low-frequency cut filter ("high-pass" being the correct techno-jargon for it). Why have a feature which chops off all that lovely deep bass? Because as a rule, deep bass belongs more in the home than at a live sound gig.

    Below 50Hz you enter the realm of very long wave forms and their ability to set all kinds of things in motion - bass drums, bass strings, microphones, speakers, furniture, walls, ceilings, you name it. This may cause feedback problems and sound colouration. Additionally, woofers reproducing these very low frequencies at high sound-pressure levels consume huge amounts of amplifier power which leaves less for the important 60-100Hz range where audiences get treated to the "thumps" they like so much.

  • "LP Filter" Opposite to the high-pass filter, the low-pass or "Ultra-Sonic" filter attenuates the very high frequencies, generally above 20kHz (20,000 cycles-per-second). This is to avoid problems sometimes caused by high-frequency osicillations above the human hearing range. These may be generated by a defective processor or synthesizer or even a radio station. What happens is, the oscillation gets amplified and goes to the tweeters or horns where it sits, heating up the voicecoils which are probably unable to reproduce that frequency and even if they were, nobody would be able to hear it. This can cause the voicecoils to burn or otherwise suffer a premature demise.

    { TIP - In a live sound situation, it's generally a good idea to activate both filters. They cost your audience no real sonic performance and they offer a valuable insurance policy.}

INPUTS AND OUTPUTS
Most professional PA power amplifiers these days feature balanced inputs which may take the form of 3-pin XLR connectors or TRS (tip-ring-sleeve) 1/4-inch jack sockets, or both. As a rule, each channel will have two inputs wired together in parallel so that mixer signal can be fed to other power ampifier inputs via balanced patch cords.

PARAMETRIC EQ
Unlike the graphic EQ, the parametric most often has rotary controls rather than sliders. You will find controls for Frequency and Q accompanying each cut/boost control so that you end up with three knobs for each frequency. This provides you with the ability to pinpoint a range of frequencies and either boost or cut the gain there.

The Frequency control is self-explanatory - it moves the cut/boost across the audio spectrum. The Q control enables you to broaden or narrow the band of frequencies to be cut or boosted. As a rule, the cut/boost will have a less noticeable effect on a high Q setting because Q reflects the ratio of gain change to frequency band, ergo a high setting represents a high gain-change-per-octave ratio, hence a narrow band of frequencies. Together the three controls create a potentially ideal cure for problems like feedback. You set the cut/boost for a -6dB cut, set the Q up about half way, then rotate the frequency control until the feedback stops.

The Q control is especially valuable in this regard because once you have located a feedback frequency range using a medium Q setting, you can increase the Q setting thereby narrowing the range of cut frequencies so that fewer "innocent" frequencies are affected and the basic sound quality does not suffer needlessly. Like the graphics, parametric EQ's may feature high and low-pass filters. See above for details.

  • { TIP - Although you can create very specific frequency boosts, you should (again) resist the temptation to do so in an effort to "sweeten" the sound. A low-Q, low-frequency boost may sound great at low volume but, as with the graphic, it will cost you performance at high volume levels. For information about scanning for feedback, see >>EQ under MIXER CONTROLS.}
COMPRESSOR/LIMITER
This type of device has been around even longer than either the graphic or parametric EQ, however its use for PA applications is still largely limited to the bigger systems. Created as a means to reduce audio peaks on recordings or broadcasts, the comp/limiter acts rather like an automatic gain reducer - a "robot maximum volume controller" if you prefer.

Controls usually include:

  • Threshhold (the signal level at which the comp/limiting is triggered)
  • Attack time (how fast the gain gets turned down when the signal exceeds the Threshold level)
  • Release time (how fast the gain is allowed to go back up again after the peak is over)
  • Ratio or Slope (ratio of input level to output level, eg "1:1" means no comp/limiting, "4:1" means input peaks are being comp/limited to as little as one quarter their original strength, etc., etc.)
  • Output level for adjusting the final, comp/limited signal up or down to match the rest of the system.
One example of this device's usefulness is in controlling bass guitar transients when the bass amp is being "lined" into the mixer (i.e. the "Line" output from the amp is patched into the Line input on one of the mixer channels). You would patch the comp/limiter in-between the bass amp and the mixer. If the bassist uses a lot of slaps or a hard picking technique, set the Threshold fairly low, around half-way, the Attack and Release should also be around that setting and the Slope or Ratio at around 4:1 or 6:1. The Level control would simply be adjusted in conjunction with the mixer channel's input Gain control to achieve a small amount of clip light activity on that channel. Fine tuning of the comp/limiter's controls should net plenty of bass through the PA with no distortion or major loss of system headroom.

Perhaps more common is the need to ensure that speakers do not receive more than their maximum rated power. A limiter is the best means by far of providing this insurance. Fuses, for instance, will always fail after a certain amount of usage because amplifier output signals cause the elements to flex rather like an inchworm, causing the metal to fatigue then break (fuses also add current-variable resistance to the speaker circuit which affects the amp's damping factor). A good, sonically transparent limiter can be set so that the maximum mixer signal the amplifier receives is only sufficient to drive it to the pre-determined output power level.

A watt meter attached to the output of the amp can be used to measure power while test signals are put through the system. With the comp/limiter's Output Level on full, the Ratio on 4:1, Attack and Release at low settings, establish the right Threshold setting so that the desired power level is not exceeded according to the watt meter. Now "peg" that Threshold setting with a dot marker. It is worth noting that a setup lke this to cover monitors as well as main speakers has the added benefit of protecting against accidental transients from mics being dropped, cables being yanked out, turn-on "snaps" when the mixer goes off then comes back on (somebody tripped over the power cord) or A.C. surges when the lighting system dims right down.

A few other applications for comp/limiters and settings for them are listed below (from the ART model CS-2 manual); Note: "# o'clock" simply refers to the general control setting

  • *Fattening drums & percussion; Slope - 4:1 to 6:1, Attack - 10:00 o'clock, Release - 10:00 o'clock
  • *Bringing out an instrument from the mix; Slope - 2:1 to 4:1, Attack - 9:00 o'clock, Release - 9:00 o'clock
  • *Adding sustain to an instrument; Slope - 6:1 to max., Attack - 10:00 o'clock, Release - 10:00 o'clock
ELECTRONIC or "Active" CROSSOVER
Although it is more associated with speaker systems than signal processors, the active or electronic crossover is normally connected between the mixer and power amps and thus is covered in this section. Its purpose is to ensure that the amplifiers directly powering woofers, tweeters and midrange speakers or horns receive the correct ranges of sound frequencies so that the overall sound is balanced and there is no distortion or damaged horn/tweeters receiving frequencies which are too low.

Crossovers do this by putting the audio signal through a series of filter stages which separate the lows from the mids and/or highs. What makes Active crossovers preferable to the passive variety is their lack of phase alignment problems, their frequency variability and their ability to control the volume level of the different frequency ranges.

Basic features include the following;

  • Input, usually balanced with a stereo1/4" jack or XLR
  • Low, Mid and High frequency outputs on 3-way models, Low and High frequency outputs only on 2-way units
  • Input Level control, then Frequency controls and Output Level controls for each range - for example, on a 3-way crossover there would be a "Low/Mid Frequency" control and a "Mid/High Frequency" control plus Low, Mid and High output level controls.
Crossovers work by reducing the gain of the audio signal above and below certain frequencies. It is IMPORTANT to note that they do this rather gradually; the rate at which they "roll off" the gain being expressed in decibels (dB) per-octave (an octave is either double the frequency in question if it's an octave higher, or half of it if it's an octave lower).

For example, if you were to set the high/low frequency of a 2-way, 12dB-per-octave crossover at, let's say 1,000Hz (1,000 cycles-per-second), the high-frequency output signal level from the crossover will be attentuated by -12dB one octave lower than that. As a result, power signals from the amp to the horn or tweeter occurring down at 500 Hz, i.e. one octave below 1,000Hz, will also be attenuated by -12dB or roughly 75%. Thus, if your horn or tweeter is rated at 100 watts at 1kHz. and a 100-watt power amp is connected to a 12dB/octave crossover set at 1kHz., the component may be receiving output down at 500Hz at a power level of 25 watts - not likely to cause a problem in this case. But if the amp puts out 200 watts, the HF components could be receiving 50 watts down at 500Hz which is dangerous.

Keep in mind that low frequencies kill horns and tweeters even at low applied power levels. Hence, when you are bi-amping high-frequency components in a 2-way system, do not over power them and be sure about the crossover frequency.

  • { TIP 1 - When shopping for an active crossover, it's probably a good idea to look at the "fast" ones - i.e.18dB/octave or even 24dB/octave. 12dB/octave is alright for small, low-power systems, but faster rolloffs offer greater precision and a much better safety margin for your midrange and/or high-frequency components.}

  • { TIP 2 - Another good idea, once you have picked an active crossover, is to check the accuracy of the Frequency control. This can be accomplished using a sweep signal generator and a level meter, or a pink noise generator and a realtime frequency analyzer. This test can be worthwhile because not all crossover frequency controls are very accurate and, while it doesn't mean there is anything wrong with the crossover, you still need to know what is really happening when you set this dial. If it's high by just half an octave, eg. a setting of "1kHz" actually represents a 750Hz crossover point, you could end up with distortion or blown components. Knowing this however, you could compensate by turning the dial up half an octave to a 1.5kHz setting.}

  • { TIP 3 - You can adjust the crossover's Level controls for smooth frequency response by "ear", however it's a good idea to employ something else as well for reference. Realtime frequency analyzers are produced by a few different companies and some sell for only a few hundered dollars. RTA's usually come with a built-in pink noise generator, a condensor microphone with very flat frequency response (that's important) and a digital frequency response display.

    During setup when there are no audience members present, plug the pink noise into a mixer channel with all EQ set flat including the main graphic - the system will be roaring like Niagara Falls. Now set up the mic in the middle of the audience area and adjust the crossover Level controls until the RTA 's response graph display looks as flat as possible. Now you can adjust the main EQ slightly to reduce the size of response peaks which look big enough to pose a feedback threat; just remember the rule, never over-equalize, not even to make an RTA look flat.

    Although the RTA provides a handy visual guide, it should not be taken too literally. You still need to use common sense and your ears to a certain degree; but remember that this is a sound job, not your living room - take it easy with the "boom and sizzle" or the system will start to sound muddy when you increase the level later on. And if you are in doubt, the safest thing to do is to set all level controls on the crossover at maximum and, in so doing, send equal amounts of signal to all power amps. The maximum settings will compensate for potentiometer tolerances - max is always max no matter what the tolerances might be}.

Standard wiring for an active crossover goes as follows:
  1. Mixer's Main or Sub Output is patched to the crossover's Input.
  2. Crossover's Low frequency Output patches to the input of the power amp (channel) driving the woofers.
  3. Crossover's High frequency Output patches to the Input of the power amp (channel) driving the tweeters and/or horns.
  4. Crossover's Mid Output on a 3-way unit patches to the Input of the power amp (channel) driving the midrange speakers or horns. There are also 4-way crossovers which would have either Low-Mid controls and Output, or High-Mid controls and Output. Additionally, some crossovers may have a "Sub" Output for connecting the subwoofer power amp (channel). These often have a fixed crossover frequency at around 90Hz. and may or may not have a Level control - if not, the level would be preset at maximum.
REVERB
It follows that, since reverb units are signal processors, they should be mentioned in that overall context. On the other hand, they are effects devices not sound controllers and will therefore be dealt with briefly. There is a basic rule of thumb which says that a small amount of your favorite reverb sound on the main system should be enough for most places, especially if the place has a natural reverb or echo of its own - too much reverb makes the sound muddy and lacking in punch (speaking of which, you should never add more than a small amount of reverb to bass drum or bass guitar, otherwise your system's punch could turn to MUSH). Equal restraint should be employed when mixing reverb to the monitors - performers need clarity with a capital "C" onstage.

Aside from that, it's worthwhile mentioning that your reverb unit would normally be connected to the mixer's EFX Send and Return jacks - Send going to the reverb's Input and the reverb's Output going to Return. However you may only want a particular type of reverb or echo on one channel, possibly the lead vocalist. Then you would patch the reverb unit into that channel's Insert connection (See >>"INSERT" under MIXER INPUTS). Note that this channel should probably not be put through any additional reverb as the clarity of that channel could be muddled. In general terms, reverb can add a nice "dimension" to your sound and even a bit more if it's a stereo reverb and you're running a stereo main PA. Just don't overdo it.

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