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2010
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Power Amplifiers FAQ

Q:Can I connect a mixer with balanced outputs to a power amp with unbalanced inputs?
A:Yes. In fact there is a way to connect them, which gives you most of the hum cancelling you'd get if both units were balanced. Here's how it goes:

If the mixer has XLR outputs and the amp has ¼" inputs, use a balanced patch cable with a female XLR at one end and an TRS (stereo) ¼" male jack at the other. Modify it as follows:

  1. Remove the ¼" TRS plug,
  2. Solder on a standard mono ¼" plug as follows; - tip wire to tip tab, ring and sleeve wire (shield) to sleeve (ground) tab (alternately you can just modify the wiring inside the stereo plug,
  3. Mark that cable with some tape to indicate that it's the one for this application.
If the mixer has XLR outputs and amp has screw terminals or phono (RCA) connectors, use a balanced female XLR - to - ¼" male TRS cable and remove the ¼" plug. If you need to install an RCA plug, solder the tip wire to the tip of the RCA and solder the other wire plus the shield wire to the RCA's jacket (ground). If the amp has screw terminals, attach the tip wire to the positive (+) screw and the other two to the negative (-) screw. If it doesn't work, the most likely problem would be how the mixer's XLR output pins are wired so be prepared to unsolder and re-solder a connection or two at the XLR end of the cable.

{Note: The standard balanced XLR wiring (here at Yorkville and with most companies) is pin 1=ground, pin 2 = positive (+), pin 3 = negative (-) }

If both the mixer and the amp have ¼" connectors, it's best to use a balanced TRS-TRS patch cord modified as follows; (1) Remove one of the ends, (2) Replace it with a standard mono ¼" plug soldering the tip wire to the tip tab and the other two to the ground tab (the longer of the two). (3) Mark the mono-plug end with some tape so that in future you'll know this is the cable for this application and that the mono end goes into the unbalanced jack.

{Note: The standard balanced ¼" wiring (here at Yorkville and with most companies) goes tip = positive (+), ring = negative (-), sleeve = ground }

{Additional notes: (1) This form of "trick" balancing works very well with one small exception; if you switch off the mixer but leave the amp on, you may hear some hum through the speakers. If so, it is because the balancing in the mixer, which is generally an active circuit these days, has also been switched off (naturally), ergo there's no more hum cancelling. Just remember to switch off the amp too. Oh, and one other thing - if you hadn't already figured it out, these balancing tricks work for EVERYTHING; unbalanced mixer to balanced amp, balanced mixer to unbalanced EQ, or crossover, or compressor/limiter, effects units, etc., etc. }

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Q:I own both the AP4040 (3-Speakon) amplifier and the AP4040 (2-Speakon) amplifier. With the AP4040 (3-Speakon) I noticed that the cooling fan does not spin when I first turn on the power for the amplifier. But with the AP4040 (2 Speakon) the cooling fan spins as soon as I first turn on the amplifier. Is the cooling fan for the AP4040 (3 Speakon) amplifier broken or does it need to reach a certain temperature before it begins to spin? Would you be able to give me an explanation for both of these amplifiers cooling fan operation procedures?
A:In fairly recent times we responded to a couple of consumer concerns regarding power amps. One was the "Bridge" Speakon output which was removed when we discovered it led to confusion (a special speaker cable is needed to make it work). The other change was the fan duty cycle, which had some people concerned that their fans were broken. Now, instead of being off until needed, the fan now turns at low rpm, then speeds up as required.

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Q:Why is it not recommended to run a 2 ohm load on certain power amps when all these amp companies boast about their power ratings at two ohms? What do the professionals do to avoid running at 2 ohms (besides wiring the speakers differently)?
A:Many companies, ourselves included, make both 4-Ohm and 2-Ohm power amps. Why not have anything but 2-Ohm amps? The problem with a 2-Ohm amp is, you HAVE to run it into 2 Ohms in order to get full power. But in most cases, especially club systems where there is only one or two main cabinets on each side of the stage, because nobody makes 2-Ohm cabinets, you need the ability to deliver full power to a 4-Ohm load. eg. Two 8R cabs or one 4R cab per side. Actually, all Yorkville power amps can either run into 2 Ohms, or have twins, which can. For example, the AP800 and AP2020 both have switches that maximize output into 2 or 4 Ohms. The AP4020 and AP4040 cover the 2400-Watt power range, and the AP6020 and AP6040 cover the 4000-watt range (we can't do the impedance switch trick with those big amps so we make dual products instead).

And what do the pros do about 2-Ohm loads? It depends on the definition of "pro". The big touring rigs tend to favor 8-Ohm loads, 4 Ohms minimum. This is because delivered power losses over long cable runs are lower when the speaker impedances are 8 Ohms. They can become very high - 60% percent or worse (!) - into 2-Ohm speaker loads.

Feeling confused? Check out the power loss chart in our on-line Audio Guide in the Speaker section. Club pros, on the other hand, can contend with whatever loads they encounter principally because the speaker cables don't have to be so long hence the cumulative resistance doesn't get high enough to rob large amounts of power.

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Q:My PA mixer/amp is rated at 600 watts per channel into 4 Ohms. Which would be the best speakers to use with it, 4 Ohms or 8 Ohms, and what power ratings?
A:That depends on whether or not you intend to power monitors off one of the channels and run the main system in mono off the other channel, or run a stereo main system and power the monitors with a separate amp. If you choose the first type of system, you'll need two 8-Ohm main speakers and either one 4-ohm monitor or two 8-ohm monitors. In the stereo system you could either use two 4-ohm main speakers or four 8-ohm main speakers. To figure out the power ratings, simply assume that speakers always share the power. So if there's one 4-ohm speaker per channel it should be 1/600=600 Watts per speaker. If there's two 8-ohm speakers (i.e. a 4-ohm load) per-channel it's 2/600=300 Watts per speaker.

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