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2010
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élite Speaker Systems FAQ

Q:As an owner of 8 EX2000 and 8 SW1000 cabinets (with AP power) I am finding the older processors to be the weakest link in the system. Just adding an electronic x-over made a HUGE difference. I know it sounds like a backward idea, but there are a lot of these boxes out there and I'm sure I would buy an improved processor if you produced one. - Just an idea....
A:Check out the new EP2104 or EP2204 processor. It has a fixed horn/woofer x-over plus a sub x-over with frequency control variable from 90-150Hz. There is also a biamp / full range button like the old one plus a live/playback curve button and it's balanced. Check out the owner's manual on our site under "Acrobat Files".

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Q:I have purchased a pair of used elite 2000's and a pair of used EX401's, and new ES-808 sub's. I have 2 active crossovers, 3 channel on 1 and 2 channel on other. I am bi-amping the 2000's and would like to know the following.
  1. What is the recommended crossover frequency for the 808s vs. 2000s
  2. Also the crossover freq. for 2000's fifteens vs. horn & tweeter.
  3. Any suggestions as to speaker placement would be appreciated as I intend to use the 401's as side fills and do not want a phasing problem.
A:
  1. 90Hz
  2. 1500Hz
  3. Keep the subs together on the same plane & facing in the same direction. Try to keep the 2000's on the same plane as well & facing front. Don't worry about the 2000's and 401's, being in phase with each other. With the 2000s facing front and the 401s facing in from the sides they'll be around 90 degrees acoustically out of phase anyhow. A good thing too - fewer feedback problems.

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Q:Can you tell me if your model ES908 bass bin is the new version of the former SW900. We do large arenas and many school gymnasiums and are looking for more bass punch all the way to the back of the room. We also use your AP3000 amps with Elite crossovers. Sitting on top of the SW-800s are the Elite 1000's which perform very well...we just need more long distant throw on the bass. What do you suggest?
A:Yes the ES908 is the new version of the SW900, however we should clear something up - speakers don't really throw sound. The sound pressure they generate at the source just naturally travels farther if it's higher to begin with. Spl dissipates at roughly -6dB as you double your distance from the source, regardless of the nature of the source. The ES808 and ES908 have nearly equal source spls so changing subs might not be necessary. You might be able to improve your source spl with the SW-800s simply by close coupling them (putting them close together, side-by-side, facing in the same direction) and making sure that they and their cables are all in phase. If you do decide to employ other woofers - ES908s or ES1004s or any subs - the same suggestion would apply.

Phasing irregularities often causes problems of apparent "short throw" at low frequencies. Something as simple as the subs not sitting on the same horizontal plane or aiming in slightly different directions can result in phase-related losses of several dB. Of course if the subs have reverse polarity - i.e. they are 180 degrees out of phase due to messed up wiring - the losses are even higher. The trouble is, when you listen closely to a speaker which is out of phase with other similar speakers, whether acoustically or electrically, it sounds perfectly fine - lots of power and punch. The losses occur at a distance where those long, out-of-phase waves come together and cancel each other out. If you think this could be a problem, check everything out with an electrical phase tester for the subs' wiring and cables. Finally, make sure the subs are geographically aligned and close-coupled. You might not need new subs at all.

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Q:I have just purchased a pair of Elite EX1000 from the second hand market On the name plate on these cabinets is 1000 Watt program 4 ohms. I would like to find out the RMS wattage value of these cabinets as in Australia most amplifiers are rated in RMS and I am interested in matching the right amplifier to the cabinets for maximum performance.
A:Establishing meaningful RMS ratings for speakers is really dicey. That's why most of the audio industry has stopped using them. Here's how it works: RMS stands for "root mean square" or "the equivalent heating effect of an alternating current operating in a resistance". In other words, it works great for figuring out kitchen range element ratings.

When it comes to speakers, the original test method involved connecting the test amp to the output of a test oscillator set at 1,000 Hz sine wave. You would turn the amp up 'til a connected voltmeter read X-number of volts hence watts per the formula and wait for the speaker to "peeeeeep" itself to death (or not).This might happen in fairly short order with some speakers but oddly not with others which seemed outwardly similar - same voicecoil, same magnet. Why? It had to be the cone - the surviving speaker had vibrated more freely at that frequency hence the voice coil moved farther and was able to keep itself cool enough to survive. Ergo, power capacity had to be effected by frequency response.

The audio industry responded to this quandary by developing the "sweep" oscillator test method. Here the frequency of the sine wave could automatically be swept from 20Hz to 20kHz repeatedly and at an adjustable rate. That meant the speaker was subjected to a single "boooeeeeeeep" time after time until it failed (or not). The trouble was, if you did this slowly, the speaker might fail at 100 watts. But if you set the sweep rate fast enough - "bweepbweepbweep" - that same speaker could take maybe 150 watts (!). And of course nobody in the industry could come up with a "standard" sweep rate (an impossible task). So there it sat. A big unsolved problem. People had to have a power rating but RMS wasn't very reliable.

Things came to a head in the 1970s when concert sound burst on the scene. Suddenly everyone was declaring themselves "sound men" and putting big systems together. Now it became important to know how much power a driver could take when music was the source. But all they had were the old RMS ratings. Thus followed a dreadful period wherein drivers were blowing like popcorn while soundmen threw around theories like "Apply twice the RMS rating." or "Apply three times RMS." or whatever.

Pink noise had been developed in the sixties but wasn't widely used in this application until the 1980s. It is the closest you can come to music, in terms of making a driver work. Pink noise is one of the sources manufacturers use these days in establishing "program" power ratings. We do too, but we also use highly compressed rock CDs to represent worst-case live audio conditions.

Anyway, that's why we don't have RMS ratings for speakers any more. But fear not, amps are a different matter. RMS can be used to closely represent the continuous or long-term average output of an amp. Ergo, if you have a 100Wrms amp, you can, with due caution, use a 100W continuous program speaker - a masterpiece of simplicity compared to the old days. Continuous program is how all our speakers are rated.

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