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2010
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Powered and Other Sub Woofer Systems FAQ

Q:I would like to know how the inputs on the ES700P powered subwoofer work. Say that I have an EM378 monitor back by the drummer for vocal monitoring and a little drums in small venues. When the venue gets large or goes outdoors, I was thinking of adding the ES700P under the EM378 for a compact drum fill. I would need to supply power to the ES700P, but would it be possible to take the amp feed off the EM378 to give the ES700P its signal source? And do it without robbing power from the EM378? I'm just wondering how easy it would be to patch an ES700P into the equation and accomplish some crossover duties without having to send the ES700P a dedicated/processed send.
A:No problem - just set the Input Level selector button to the "Speaker" setting and run it off the EM378 like an extension speaker. Or alternately you can run the power signal from your PA amp direct to the ES700P and then run a short speaker cable from the 700P's Parallel Input jack to the EM378. The ES700P has very high input impedance so it won't load down the amp and alter power delivered to the monitor. Set the High Frequency Cutoff control to around 100Hz but feel free to experiment with it. Have fun.

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Q:I experienced a problem with my ES700P powered subwoofer Saturday night. The dance floor was packed and everything was working fine. After about 10minutes of dance music with heavier bass the unit started thumping irregularly, completely out of time to the music. I turned the gain down to "0" then slowly increased it. It had to be run at about "4" the rest of the night. Not much bottom there! I have been adjusting the gain on the back of the unit to about "5" to get through the night, though I need to set it higher, and the frequency at 100.

The only way to avoid this problem seems to be to cut the bass on my EQ to a super low level...this defeats my purpose of having a sub woofer. The only sound processing equipment I use is an EQ and I have been keeping the low end pretty light. Still had the problem when the EQ was by passed. As I mentioned in my first letter to you, when this thing works right I am extremely happy. It's just so unpredictable I find myself spending a lot of energy keeping an ear on the sub when I should be concentrating on my crowd.

A:Sounds like you're putting too much input signal into the ES700P and its limiter is working overtime to try and save the woofers. When the input signal voltage exceeds the preset threshold, it limits the signal on the initial attack (in this case probably a "thump") then releases it a split second later. That could cause the strange delayed effect you're hearing.

As far as EQ'd signals are concerned, remember an EQ is just a gain control. When you boost one or more frequencies, you're boosting the signal gain. I would suggest that you do not boost any frequencies below 200Hz and just let the sub work on its own. Remember that turning up the volume on the sub is adding tons of bottom end to the overall sound. As you increase the output of the bottom end of the graphic EQ, you're really turning up the bottom end twice. The net result is more distortion, not more sound. As far as un-EQ'd signal is concerned, it's probably the same problem, just too much un-boosted signal. The gain control on that unit should probably not be set above 4 or 5 unless the input signal is weak. Above that setting with a strong signal, the limiter starts working.

The fundamental problem could be that you want more bass power than the unit can produce. An additional ES700P might do the trick or you might need to go to a big woofer and power amp. Try renting an additional ES700P and see how that works.

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Q:On the PS100P and the ES200P subwoofers how about adding a crossover for the top cabinets. I am aware that the ES700 and the PS210's have crossovers but they are far to heavy for us old fat blues guys! As these subs will more than likely be used with your small format boxes. (i.e. E160/168 and PL8/10 or 12's.) While these are fine speakers, the only reason someone is going to use the subs is if they are going to mike bass drums, keyboards and bass guitar. Also having to use a processor defeats the purpose of having a powered mixer and powered subs. The whole point is compact, portability, and setting up as few pieces of gear as possible. - Or, how about a non-powered mixer for the powered 160's?
A:Actually none of our powered subs have crossovers, they all have low-pass filters, adjustable in the case of ES700P. So feel free to experiment with the PS110P or ES200P. You probably won't need an outboard crossover either. Few if any people use them with these subs as they were designed to be used without one. Why not just rent a system, plug in and play - bass, bass drum and all. If there's a free monitor, effects or aux. buss on your mixer and you want to get fancy, you could try feeding the powered subs with that bus' output. Then you could adjust the applicable channel send controls to get more or less signal direct to the subs. Our full-range cabs can take a bit of bass drum & bass guitar so they'll be OK as long as you don't crank those channels' level faders too high. Just use the volume control on the subs (or the aforesaid channel sends) to increase the "whump".

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Q:I have an AP4020 power amp and 4 PS18 cabinets, which are only 300 watts per speaker. Does Yorkville have a heavier 18-inch speaker that I could put into this cabinet i.e. 600-800 watts?
A:As is the case with all speaker enclosures, the PS18 cabinet was designed for a specific driver. Another eighteen might not work better in it, regardless of power rating, price, etc. Unfortunately, just putting a speaker that handles more power in a given enclosure is rather like putting a truck engine in the family sedan without also replacing the transmission, beefing up the suspension, wheels, tires, etc. It won't necessarily make the car capable of doing more work and can even decrease its normal performance. Your ideal solution would be to obtain single-eighteen cabs which will be able to handle the AP4020's maximum output should you find it necessary to drive it that hard while generating more sound pressure level from the available power. Four Elite ES608's would give you around 2 to 3dB more sound pressure per-cabinet, roughly equivalent to a 30% increase in average perceived loudness over the PS18's, at any power level. As well, they can handle the amp's full output thus producing even more sound pressure. Yes, it's going to be somewhat more costly than buying heavier-duty eighteen's and putting them in your PS-18s, but it's less of an experiment which, given the cost of really good woofers, could be expensive.

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Q:Can you tell me if your model ES908 bass bin is the new version of the former SW900. We do large arenas and many school gymnasiums and are looking for more bass punch all the way to the back of the room. We also use your AP3000 amps with Elite crossovers. Sitting on top of the SW-800s are the Elite 1000's which perform very well...we just need more long distant throw on the bass. What do you suggest?
A:Yes the ES908 is the new version of the SW900, however we should clear something up - speakers don't really throw sound. The sound pressure they generate at the source just naturally travels farther if it's higher to begin with. Spl dissipates at roughly -6dB as you double your distance from the source, regardless of the nature of the source. The ES808 and ES908 have nearly equal source spls so changing subs might not be necessary. You might be able to improve your source spl with the SW-800s simply by close coupling them (putting them close together, side-by-side, facing in the same direction) and making sure that they and their cables are all in phase. If you do decide to employ other woofers - ES908s or ES1004s or any subs - the same suggestion would apply.

Phasing irregularities often causes problems of apparent "short throw" at low frequencies. Something as simple as the subs not sitting on the same horizontal plane or aiming in slightly different directions can result in phase-related losses of several dB. Of course if the subs have reverse polarity - i.e. they are 180 degrees out of phase due to messed up wiring - the losses are even higher. The trouble is, when you listen closely to a speaker which is out of phase with other similar speakers, whether acoustically or electrically, it sounds perfectly fine - lots of power and punch. The losses occur at a distance where those long, out-of-phase waves come together and cancel each other out. If you think this could be a problem, check everything out with an electrical phase tester for the subs' wiring and cables. Finally, make sure the subs are geographically aligned and close-coupled. You might not need new subs at all.

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